[转贴]从人类首登慕士塔格峰 回顾中国现代登山50年史
<H1 align=center><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=5>从人类首登慕士塔格峰 回顾中国现代登山50年史</FONT></H1><P align=center><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>时间:2006-08-18 </FONT></P><P align=center><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>来源:新华网 作者:</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/search_result.php?keyword=丁秀玲&type=author" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>丁秀玲</FONT></A></P><P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> 新华网</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/7a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>乌鲁木齐</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>8月17日电 8月16日,“纪念人类首登</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/brand/133.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>慕士塔格</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>50周年活动”中日</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山队</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>7人成功登顶后,从山顶下撤到</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/601a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>大本营</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>。从7月开始,</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/153a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>新疆</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>先后有3支</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/67a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>民间登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>队以攀登的方式纪念人类首登</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/376a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>慕士塔格峰</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>和</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/10290.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>现代</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>运动50周年。</FONT></P><P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> 从</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/brand/133.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>慕士塔格</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>出发,</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/10290.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>现代</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>历史从最初的“为国争光”到如今的</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/67a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>民间登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>的兴盛,已经历了50年的历程。50年后,“为什么要</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>”这个千古难题已经更多了些个人色彩,而对于这个问题,100个人就会有100个答案。</FONT></P><P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> 有人说,这就是社会的进步。</FONT></P> <FONT size=4>向中国登山队学习!</FONT> <P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> 二十世纪六七十年代:为国家荣誉而攀登</FONT></P><P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> 为什么要</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>?因为山在那里。这是20世纪最负盛名的</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/10282.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>英国</FONT></A><A href="http://www.8264.com/brand/198.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>探险家</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>马诺里的回答。这句话被各国</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>爱好者一直奉若经典。而上个世纪五六十年代的</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/10290.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>人则会告诉你,为了国家的荣誉。</FONT></P><P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> 1956年7月31日,一支由31人组成的</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/10290.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>和苏联联合</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山队</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登上了</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/376a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>慕士塔格峰</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>顶,这是</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/10290.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>人第一次登</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/137a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>上海</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>拔7000米以上的高峰(高峰新闻,高峰说吧)。而在此之前,刚刚成立不久、缺乏经验的</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/114a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国登山队</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>仅攀登过海拔3000多米的</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/145a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>陕西</FONT></A><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/304a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>太白山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>。此次攀登的意义非比寻常。</FONT></P><P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> </FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/406a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国登山协会</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>办公室一位负责人说,</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/10290.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>真正掌握高山攀登技巧,就是从攀登</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/376a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>慕士塔格峰</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>开始的。3年后,急于证明自己的</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/10290.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>男女混合</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山队</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>,在</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/brand/133.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>慕士塔格</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>自主创造了</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山队</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>集体安全登</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/137a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>上海</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>拔7500米以上高山人数最多的世界纪录、世界女子登高纪录,以及女子登</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/137a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>上海</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>拔7500米以上高山人数最多的世界纪录。</FONT></P> <P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> </FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/10290.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国</FONT></A><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>的辉煌历史,从此缓缓拉开。</FONT></P><P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> </FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/153a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>新疆</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>第一代</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山队</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>员买买提依明·牙生说,当时的</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>更多的是为了祖国的荣誉,与当时的环境、政治密不可分,</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>运动也因此罩上了一层神秘的色彩。</FONT></P><P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> 买买提依明本是</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/153a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>新疆</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>和田人,1966年年仅17岁的他鼓胸、宽肩,精力充沛,成为</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/153a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>新疆</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>第一代专业</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>运动员。他说,我们渴望以</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>证明自己,为国争光。</FONT></P><P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> 一个人的命运往往与社会息息相关。1960年,三位</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/10290.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>勇士</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/391a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>王富洲</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>、</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/383a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>贡布</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>、</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/393a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>屈银华</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>首创人类史上从</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/263a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>珠穆朗玛峰</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>北坡登顶的纪录,大大鼓舞了正在遭受三年自然灾害和美苏等国封锁中的</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/10290.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>人,也向世界昭示了</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/10290.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>人敢于克服任何困难的勇气。但由于照片资料不足,此举没有获得所有人的认可。1966年10月,买买提依明和队友受命奔赴</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/632a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>甘肃</FONT></A><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/755a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>兰州</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>集训,与</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/250a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>西藏登山队</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>、</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/146a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>四川</FONT></A><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山队</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>、</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/114a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国登山队</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>共六七十名队员一道,计划于次年3月从最难走的北坡路线攀登地球之巅——</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/263a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>珠穆朗玛峰</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>,创造集体登顶之最的世界纪录。但当时训练是保密的,给家里写信也只能用信箱号。</FONT></P><P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> 为了避免再次引发争议,买买提依明他们还特意学习了</FONT><A href="http://bbs.8264.com/forum-39-1.html" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>摄影</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>摄像课程。</FONT></P><P><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4> 在文革的动荡年代,临出发时,命令却戏剧性地因故没有等来。时至今日,买买提依明还惋惜不已。到1975年,</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/114a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>中国登山队</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>再次独立完成攀登</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/topic/keyword/263a/" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>珠峰</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>,无高不攀的</FONT><A href="http://www.8264.com/list/224" target=_blank><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>登山</FONT></A><FONT color=#1a1ae6 size=4>成绩为国家争得无尚荣耀。</FONT></P>
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